Eradicating Moss
Moss will occur generally on lawns that are pretty impoverished or badly drained. Waterlogged patches will almost certainly develop moss, as do areas that have been mown too closely.
Early application (April/May) of a moss killer i.e. lawn sand, iron salted lawn sand. The ferrous sulphate will burn out the moss and the nitrogen will green it up.
Two weeks after application, the moss can be raked with a lawn rake. Do not add any raked up moss or any grass cuttings that have been treated with a selected weed killer or a moss killer into a compost bin, they should be disposed of separately.
Approximately four to six weeks after applying the lawn sand a proprietary product containing a moss killer, lawn weed killer and lawn feed can be added. This will encourage the developing grasses to grow and eliminate any further weed.
 
How to seed a lawn
The ground should be cultivated and any pernicious, deep-rooted weeds removed.
The incorporation of an organic fertiliser into the preparatory area will encourage the new seed to germinate.
Once the cultivation has taken place grade the area to be lawn using a rake. Arrive at a fine tilth, i.e. the top 2-3 inches fairly loose and fluffy but generally level to the grades that you require.
The ground should then be heeled firm. Applying pressure with both feet alternately moving across the area and back again and then rake over the surface to a fine level and heel in the opposite direction i.e. at 90° to the first heeling process.
Rake over the surface again and then leave for approximately two days to allow the fertiliser to dissipate.
The grass seed can then be applied to the prepared areas using either a mechanical spreader or alternatively in two directions by hand, i.e. 90o to the first operation.
The grass seed should then be lightly raked into the surface to allow some of the grasses to fall into the soil and a few to remain on the surface. Generally grass seeds are treated with a bird repellent that will eliminate the necessity to apply bird repellent strings to the surface after sowing.
Once the seed has germinated remove any stones that come to the surface and roll with a light roller. When the seed germinates it will be inclined to push the seed up from the ground so it needs to be rolled.
When the grass is approximately 50mm high, mow down to about 25mm, using a sharp mower, either a rotary or cylinder. Mow at this height for an average of about four weeks and then reduce the height of cut but not to more than 12.5mm.
Do not use weed killer on any newly seeded or turfed lawns for approximately six months. No matter how carefully the site was prepared a growth of indigenous weeds and grasses is bound to appear.
The coarse grasses should be removed by hand weeding and the bare patches covered with sterilized soil or John Innes No 1 or 2 mixed with grass seed.
 
How to achieve a greener lawn
A lawn needs nitrogen, this greens the grass and stimulates leaf growth. Phosphates allow the root system to be built and potash stimulates healthy growth. These can be obtained through proprietary branded lawn fertilisers such as those in our fertilisers shopping department.
Feed your lawn three times a year, use a spring fertiliser during March and April, a summer fertiliser in June and an autumn fertiliser that actually slows down the growth rate in September and October.
Always read the manufacturers instructions before applying fertiliser.
Fertilisers should be watered in if no rain occurs within two days of applying.
Never fill your applicator whilst standing on the lawn, always fill the applicator away from the lawn and bring to the lawn. This will eliminate over dosage situations and burn by the chemical being applied too heavily.
 
Turf - Laying and Caring for your New Turf

Checklist

  1. Is your soil prepared for new turf?
  2. Do you have the correct amount of turf ordered?
  3. Do you have the tools needed for laying turf?
  4. Do you know how to arrange the new turf?
  5. Do you know how to care for the new lawn?

If you answer no to any of these questions, read further. Laying your own turf can be both fun and very satisfying.
Turf comes in neat, consistent rolls and is ready to lay. It is important that you do not delay in unrolling the turf. Turf should be rolled out within 24 hours (maximum) in the autumn/winter and 12 hours (maximum) in spring/summer. The most commonly used is the standard 1 square metre roll.
Where do I start?
Start by carrying the turf to the furthest point from the delivery area. By doing this, when you get tired you will be carrying the turf rolls the shortest distance. Try to unroll the turf along the longest border and always unroll turf across a slope, not down it. Each row of turf pieces should be offset by 300mm, brickwork style. Prior to rolling out the turf, lightly water the soil. Always place planks on newly laid turf for walking along and working from.

Hints and Tips
It is important that you follow these few rules:

  1. Start laying along a straight side in a row but jointing the ends tightly together
  2. Do not stretch the turf, always push the turf into a joint. Avoid gaps, but if they do occur fill them in with a light soil/sand mixture and gently tamp down.
  3. Ensure complete contact between the soil and the underside of the turf, and if necessary use a flat board or a pole to lightly firm down the turf. Never use a roller on freshly laid turf.
  4. Trim the ends of the turf with a spade to fit around trees, paths and so on.
Caring for your newly laid lawn
The most important time for establishing your new turf is the firs 3-4 weeks after laying. Follow these simple steps to ensure your turf grows properly.
Watering
Immediately after laying start watering. Ensure that the new lawn is never short of water. Check under corners of the turf to confirm that water has thoroughly percolated through to the underlying soil. Water repeatedly for at least two weeks until the turf is well established. Once established, weekly watering during dry periods should be adequate. Work on and press down those edges in the turf that are not well seated. You can walk on a new turf lawn almost immediately, but wait several weeks before using it for athletic activities.
 
Planting a hedge
A conifer hedge, Thuya plicata, is a bright green showy conifer growing up to a height of 3.5 metres. You can cut or clip it to contain it to a desirable height. Probably about 2 metres is an ideal height.
It will form an attractive solid dense hedge planted at 75cm to 1 metre apart. That would be 19 plants at 75cm or 16 plants at 1 metre.
 
Constructing a gravel pathway
First of all select the gravel that you prefer. We have a range of gravels in our plant care / mulches department all are suitable for laying as pathways or driveways.
Once selected and the ground has been excavated to allow for the correct depth of gravel (100 - 150 mm).
The ground should then be levelled, compacted and a membrane placed over the surface of the compacted foundation. The gravel can then be applied to the surface at the appropriate depth and finally raked level.
Should the surface be required to be driven over rather than walked over, consolidation should occur on a foundation of stone rather than soil. This will necessitate an additional excavation of approximately 150mm of soil prior to the compaction of the stone layer replacing the soil and the membrane applied to the surface of the compacted stone prior to the chippings being placed on the surface.
 
Laying block paving
First of all mark out the layout of the pathway position.
Excavate out the sub-material and place elsewhere into the garden. Excavation needs to be approximately 150mm below the surface of the blocks that are going to be laid on the surface, i.e. 150mm plus the depth of the block.
Position a timber or restraining edge or edging stone around the edges of the footpath and concrete in or peg in the timber restraint.
Whilst the perimeter edges are in position lay a layer of consolidated stone followed by 50mm of compacted sand, graded through to an even level.
The blocks can then be placed upon the sand in the required pattern.
Fine sand should then be brushed over the blocks and allowed to fill any gaps between them.
 
Creating a Herb Garden
Herbs come in a variety of shapes and sizes, including low spreading kinds, such as thyme; shrubs, such as rosemary and lavender; and herbaceous perennials such as mint, marjoram. When planting your herb garden, it is essential to consider these characteristics and compose your planting to create the best decorative effect. Beds or gardens devoted solely to herbs usually work best. Here are some ideas:
Use rosemary and lavender to create low, dividing hedges. Alternatively these plants are also grown as ½ standard and can be used to create height as a centre feature.
Creeping thymes or chamomile provide excellent ground cover and even release a pleasing aromatic aroma when crushed underfoot. Culinary thyme is a more compact plant and can be used in the boundary.
Alternating culinary thyme with chives creates a magnificent contrasting border effect.
Decorative and variegated sages planted in groups of three or five create patches of foliage colour.
To edge the herb garden, paving is better than lawn. Firstly, the paving will make area stand out and secondly the paving stones heat up in the sun and enhance the aromatic effect.
Introduce brightly coloured flowers as companions to the herbs. Pansies are great for winter, spring and summer; bulbs are lovely too and in high summer.
Slip a few bedding plants or some lilies in if you want to boost the colour. Nasturtium is edible and adds a splash of colour.
As always protect your herb garden from slugs with slug pellets.
 

 
   

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